It was in the Haut-Médoc region that Pascale Choime and Laurence Alias decided to create their domain Les Closeries des Moussis in 2009. A lovely year to kick off the project with 1.5 hectares on the Sénéjac plain, later completed with a little parcel in Margaux. The domain now covers 2 hectares. These two passionate producers, one an oenologist and the other an agronomic engineer interested in sustainable development, made the decision to follow biodynamic methods on their domain. Also certified organic, they cultivate their 30-year-old vines on soil rich in grave, clay and limestone. One of the parcels really stands out from the rest, though: one that dates back 150 years, a survivor of the phylloxera blight where there are six varietals planted. The land is worked with a horse, Jumpa, whilst the whilst cutting, debudding, defoliation and harvesting are all done by hand. For the vinification, the bunches are entirely destemmed. What follows is a gentle extraction with stirring. There are no additives apart from a small amount of sulphites when necessary.

This cuvée owes its strange name – Baragane – to the species of leek grown in the centenarian vineyard, one of the rare survivors of the phylloxera blight. The parcel spans just 0.35 hectares of limestone and clay soil that is cultivated organically and biodynamically. This is why both maintenance of the vines and their harvest are carried out by hand. In the winery, the bunches are totally destemmed before a 3-week maceration in wooden casks for 15 months. There is no fining and only a very light filtration. The result is surprising, with a nose somewhat reminiscent of cherry brandy. Complex, it needs time to evolve and open up. Once ready, a whole bouquet of fruits and earthy notes emanate from the glass. It is generous with an ample structure and a lingering fruity finish. Around 600 to 750 bottles are produced a year! Serve this cuvée at 15°C alongside a potato parmentier, lamb with herbs, or even after the meal with a morsel of dark chocolate.