The Boulay family has been cultivating vines in Chavignol since 1310. This village lies deep in the appellation of Sancerre and its steep hillsides are home to the vineyards of Les Monts Damnés, les Culs de Beaujeu and La Grande Côte. If you have already tried a François Cotat wine these names will most definitely mean something to you. Gérard Boulay manages a domain with 14 hectares of vines, half owned and half rented. Two hectares are planted for red and rosé wines and the rest is dedicated to white wine. He is one of the rare winemakers in Sancerre to till the soil, using a tracked vehicle to plough the steepest slopes - 1.5 hectares in Culs de Beaujeu, 1.8 hectares in Monts Damnés and 45 ares in Grande Côte. To protect against erosion, grass cover is used as a matter of course on the hillsides. In the "cru" vineyards, grapes are harvested by hand whereas in the other terroirs a good proportion are machine harvested. The vines are treated as little as possible and there are no pesticides, fungicides or chemical fertilisers. The domain uses some organic compost but not with the goal of increasing yields. The same philosophy is applied to winemaking. Yeasts are, of course, indigenous and the wine is decanted at the end of the fermentation stage and left over fine lees. An absolute minimum of sulphur is used and the wine rests in 300 litre barrels or enamel or stainless steel vats. This domain is one of the finest names in the appellation and is especially known for pure wines that express the diversity of Chavignol terroirs to perfection.

The first vintage from this single parcel cuvée in the Monts Damnés terroir was produced in 2005. La Comtesse is produced from old vines. The wine deserves to be cellared for at least 5 years before it will reveal all of its complexity and potential. The nose is aromatic, with herbaceous and floral notes lifted by citrus fruit aromas. The palate is ripe and well-rounded, with low acidity and a lightly bitter finish.